Having worked out most of the measuring/fitting issues in Tru-Grid and muslin, I made a simple dress in a dress-weight wool to see what else needed tweaking. Here is how it looks from the front:
Pretty good, though I see some wrinkles at the side seam/underarm point. They are much more pronounced in the back view:
It looks like the shoulder seams need to be sloped more. I checked the pattern and right now there is a hair under 1" of slope. It will need another 1/4" or so to fix. This is a new-to-me problem because my shoulders are rather square and my typical alteration for commercial patterns is to decrease the shoulder slope. It took some exercise in front of the mirror to figure out what caused these unusual wrinkles.
It is not obvious from the picture because of the belt, but the CB is cut straight (following instructions) and the waist is shaped with two darts on each side. When I adjust the pattern, the CB will curve in a half inch at the waist. My back has too much curve in it to have a straight CB seam in such a close-fitting dress.
I'm thinking about removing the sleeves and re-cutting the shoulder/armhole so that this dress can go into my regular rotation. Or I could just make a new one.
5 comments:
A straight CB seam doesn't make much sense to me, but your dress looks great anyway (though I can see your issue with the back wrinkles). Happy to see some more of your sewing! :-)
I think you've done a very good job. I find that trimming the armholes right around the top tends to reduce the wrinkling for me. You might also try pinching in the pattern slightly at the back neck.
Beautiful! It's inspiring me to get on with learning the Bernina My Label software I bought last week.
A dress this nice deserves to be altered until you are perfectly happy with it. It's really lovely on you.
This dress already looks gorgeous on you - it will be truly stellar once you are done with the alterations! You have such a wonderful sense of style.
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