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Posted by Alexandra at Studio AlexandraYippee! I took the last test of the semester today and now I can breathe freely until mid-August or so. Breathe and sew, actually.I haven't finished the long black pants yet - I still have to sew on the waistband and hem them. Instead of sewing, I've been enjoying my husband's company now that he is home again after multiple back-to-back TDYs (military equivalent of a business trip).I wanted to make a nice fly facing/underlap for both the capris and the long pants and I wanted some contrast but not a completely different color, so I used a piece of black/gray cotton batik I had left over from a class.
You can just barely see that it's a different fabric. Oh well. Maybe next time I'll try a contrast color. Like red. Or purple. Then I could have different collections, you know, like the big designers - Blue Label, Purple Label - only mine would be Red Fly, Purple Fly...
Can you imagine? The Red Fly Collection by Alexandra.
All of the bottoms would have a red fly facing/underlap and all of the tops would feature the color red. Hmm... there's an idea for a SWAP. Too bad I didn't think of it before I started sewing these two pairs.
Posted by Alexandra at Studio AlexandraNow that I have this cool dream board, I thought I'd start sewing. I made these yesterday using my TNT pants pattern and a mid-weight cotton twill from Michael's Fabrics. I wore them today for a stroll around the base, with the waistband held together by a safety pin because I still have to make the buttonhole and sew on a button.
I have also cut out a pair of long pants, using the same pattern and fabric. I plan to finish them tomorrow, then I can do the buttonholes and buttons at the same time on both pairs.For the length, I debated hemming them above the knee for more of a city shorts look or at the mid-knee (for no good reason). When I asked DH, he recommended just below the knee "because you already have a lot of clothes that show your knees". Ah, as good a reason as any, right? As it turns out, I really like this length. (Well, I do now. Watch this space for a change of mind later.)I'm not sure the red top is the best companion for these pants; I think 2" shorter would be more flattering. I'll have to try them on with several different things so I can decide.All in all, a great pair of capris for the warm weather that is slowly starting to make an appearance.
Posted by Alexandra at Studio AlexandraThere's a discussion on Stitcher's Guild about coming up with the most versatile wardrobe of separates, complete with some serious math. In it, somebody mentioned Ann Taylor so I hopped over there to take a look. Lots of inspiration there - simple, unfussy outfits with great mix & match potential - just my cup of tea.Using Sigrid's awesome storyboard tutorial, which you can download here, I came up with this:
These are the 14 pieces that make up the wardrobe:
And here are the combinations I can see myself wearing. If every bottom worked with every top, there would be 48 combinations. However, I don't like to mix prints so the printed skirt will not go with the two tops that feature a different print, though the colors may be the same. Similarly, I'm not likely to combine a casual denim skirt and a lapel jacket. So, I came up with 33 likely combinations.

I have finally analyzed my wardrobe needs (about time!!!) using Wardrobe Magic. So I can't pretend anymore and have to face the fact that I have no need for corporate chic, no matter how much I like the style. I am a full-time grad student (online learning so my "classroom" is my computer at home) and I volunteer 16-20 hours a week at the Ramstein clinic (I'm a nurse and this is an outpatient clinic so I mostly sit at a desk and talk to patients on the phone). Other than that, I figured in time to run errands and time for recreation, which usually consists of long walks around the base with my husband.Broken down into clothing categories, it looks like this:Office-worthy: 30%My kind of casual: 56%Gym & sports: 14% (already have)I am not big on the really casual - I don't even own a pair of sweats, let alone be seen in something like that in public. My idea of casual is business casual. I think with the right accessories, I can look less business and more casual - think sandals instead of pumps, no hose, and chunky jewelry instead of pearls.I think the wardrobe above will give me the right mix of office-worthy and casual outfits. Plus it will go with quite a few things I already own.I'm not committing to any deadlines here. This is just my guide to creating a versatile wardrobe.
Posted by Alexandra at Studio Alexandra
Overseas military mail service is a wonderful thing, occasional delays notwithstanding. We get bills (they could keep those), catalogs, and most importantly - packages.Packages are like Christmas in July. Or April, in this case.Today, a gorgeous piece of fabric arrived from Marji.
THANK YOU, MARJI!It is a pink boucle with curlies of white, yellow/brown, and blue. There's enough for a sleeveless sheath and that was my original plan. Alas, this newcomer is quite outspoken and insisted on being paired with the blue denim in my collection (left over from sewing these jeans). That reminded me of the novelty tweed & denim combinations in Burda WOF from March 2005. Like this:
Doesn't it look pretty?
I'm going to let it percolate in my head a bit before making a final decision.Last week, my order from White Lies Designs arrived. In it, this lovely book:
Lots of great knitting patterns - all feminine and flattering to the curvy body; nothing shapeless here. I'm really looking forward to knitting some of the camisoles and tanks. Stay tuned for updates. (Notice I didn't say hold your breath; I am a slow lazy knitter.)
One bad thing happened last weekend: the shot-of-steam button on my Rowenta Professional died. I can push the button but no steam comes out. Not cool. The rest of the iron works fine, it steams without a problem on the various steam settings; it's just that I prefer to have it set on dry and control the steam with the button.
Oh well. I have a new fabric and a new knitting book - I think I can get over the iron issue :-)
Posted by Alexandra at Studio Alexandra
In an attempt to avoid finishing the pink shirt dress (because, you know... it's not quite perfect), I started working on a muslin mock-up of a tapered skirt.I've been wearing my skirts straight, without a slit at the hem. It affords plenty of room to walk comfortably but sometimes I wonder if the straight side seams make me look a bit dowdy. So it was time to experiment.I printed out a simple tapered skirt from PMB and cut it out in plain muslin. I like the back darts the way they are. The front dart needs to be narrower or I might just omit it completely and ease the front to the waistband. I narrowed the skirt somewhat to better follow the curve of my hips.
But the really weird thing is the side seam. It needed some serious moving. And look at the result: just about all of the taper comes out of the back piece. I had to "un-taper" the front and taper the back piece more by the same amount. The side seams on both front and back have the same curve but their position in relation to the fabric grain is not the same. I wonder how that would work with a plaid. Not that I wear plaid, I'm just curious.Anybody else have this issue?
Posted by Alexandra at Studio AlexandraYes, it can. I'm making it happen. Last summer, I made this shirt from New Look 6407 and loved the neckline. I had originally planned to extend the shirt into a dress but changed my mind. Instead, I decided to draft a similar neckline onto my TNT sheath but I wanted mine a bit wider, to stand away from my neck.So, I traced my TNT sheath pattern, added a front extension for the buttons and then drew a nice curve up to the neckline, much like NL 6407, just not nearly as deep (I don't want to have to wear a camisole under this dress).
It's a bit hard to see but if you click on the picture to magnify it, you should be able to see the new neckline.Then I drafted a mandarin collar following the instructions in Joseph-Armstrong, except I made mine 1 1/4" tall instead of 1 1/2". I know it doesn't sound like much of a difference but on paper it looked like a biggie.
I used the construction technique from NL 6407 for the collar but I really don't like it much. I didn't like it the first time around with the black shirt but I didn't remember that. I'll need to come up with something better for next time.
And this is how it looks with the collar sewn on. Excuse the wrinkles, the dress is not lined and I couldn't figure out a way to make it smooth. It just wants to stick to the dress form.
The fabric is a hot pink cotton twill from Michael's Fabrics. I love the color and when I finish the dress, I will actually be right on trend with the bright color being such a big thing now. Not that I care, but it's nice to know.
Posted by Alexandra at Studio Alexandra
Last Friday Lisa asked: if you could only use 12 TNT pattern in the next year, which ones would they be?It’s a hard question to answer. I had to do some serious thinking and I still don't have 12. Not that I don't have 12 patterns, mind you, just not 12 that I use over and over.Here's what I've come up with:
Knit top: KwikSew 3003 - I've made this multiple times including as a turtleneck, with a plain round neckline, and dress.

Pants: Burda WOF 8/98 #106 – I’ve made these pleated, plain front (pleats removed), and jeans.


Skirt: self-drafted pencil skirt – I usually just play with the waistband (on, off, narrow, wide, etc).
Dress: self-drafted sheath – this actually started life years ago as my torso foundation draft when I was learning flat patternmaking. I’ve made it with sleeves and sleeveless, and with different necklines. I’m currently working on turning it into a shirt dress.
Jacket: FSG 1945 – I’ve made this jacket many times in different lengths, with or without collar/lapel.
Cardigan/sweater jacket: PMB – I printed this one out back in 2003 and have made it several times in different lengths.
Looks like I definitely need a coat pattern. I don't have one right now but it's on the list to be drafted because I got some nice raincoat material from Michael's Fabrics.
And that’s all I have. I didn’t realize until now that I use these patterns so much. I have many others but I tend to use them for inspiration and to knock off details I like.
Posted by Alexandra at Studio Alexandra
I have seen this picture lately on several very deserving, hugely inspirational, awesome blogs. I thought it was wonderful that these bloggers were so publicly recognized for their contribution to the online community. Not for a moment did I think that my humble blog was anywhere near their league.
But 'lo and behold, I got nominated twice: by Mary Beth at The Stitchery and by Charity at Vintage Threads. Thank you very much! I'm feeling all kinds of warm fuzzies at the thought that you find my blog worthy of reading. (Charity also added a very nice comment about the gray sheath fiasco misadventure "testimony to the power of underlining" - hehe, thank you for the added pressure.)
Kayla at ProjectMommy started this award in January to recognize bloggers for their contributions. Accepting this award comes with one responsibility: to award it to at least 10 other bloggers (including those who may have been awarded it before). I've spent a good chunk of my afternoon updating my blog list because it was missing quite a few blogs I had bookmarked or followed in Bloglines. Now that it's all up-to-date, I'd like to nominate all of the blogs on my list.
They are mostly sewing blogs, although there are several that are knitting-oriented. I draw inspiration from all of them. People who are new to sewing as well as those for whom sewing has been a constant companion for many years. New bloggers as well as those whose blog archives go back years. Sewists who show only completed garments as well as those who journal about the whole process, with or without tutorials. Hand-knitters as well as machine-knitters (yes, Mary Beth, that would be you).
Reading all your blogs always inspires when I need inspiration, lifts my spirit when I am down, makes me laugh when I am sad, and makes me feel like I have a great group of friends even while I'm in exile Germany. Will you please accept this rose award?
Posted by Alexandra at Studio Alexandra
Comments
A big “thank you” to all of you who have commented or emailed with words of encouragement about the gray sheath. Even though it’s still in time-out, I’ve been thinking about it. It looks a lot less wrinkled in the back when I’m wearing it. Still, I’ll feel a lot better if I can cover up the wrinkles.
Dress
Nancy W. suggested an obi belt – it would be a complete departure from my usual style (safe and boring) but it would seriously up the ‘cool’ factor of the dress. I’d like that. Now to find an obi belt…
Karen made a great “make it work” suggestion to cut down the middle of the offending piece of organza with pinking shears. That would be much kinder than my idea of revenge: cutting the organza out along all seams. Yes, horrible, I know. But I have spent a lot of time on this dress and would really like to wear it at some point.
I’ll try the belt first. If that doesn’t solve the problem, then out come the pinking shears.
Home dec
Sounds like I’m not the only reluctant home dec sewist. Some people even loathe abhor home dec sewing. I actually made more curtains the next day – I had some of the green fabric left over and thought the bedroom could use a little sprucing up. Luckily, there’s only one window so two panels, and I was done.
For those who wanted to know about the curtain tracks, IKEA sells something similar.