My goals in sewing

There's been an interesting discussion on Stitcher's Guild about books on industrial techniques that turned into a discussion about whether home sewers should even care what the industrial techniques are and why. I've spent many an hour lately, contemplating just what my goals are in sewing, and I finally figured it out. I tend to dismiss the typical "disposable" RTW as a benchmark because my garments are already above it in terms of fabric quality, construction quality, and fit/sizing. High-end RTW still appeals, though, and provides inspiration (and sometimes a "don't try this at home, they can't even make it look good on a model" warning). Haute couture and many designer collections are too far out there for my taste, too often ranging from the "what were they thinking?" to the weird to the "this designer needs professional help". Yes, I understand that it's art. I just have trouble appreciating some of it. My goal is custom-made/bespoke. Not one-of-a-kind art-to-wear, nothing to make people remember the clothes. I want people to remember me. If they notice anything about my clothes, it should be that they fit well and are well-made.

Fall sewing - part 2

We had company all week - lots of fun, but no time to sew. So now that we're back to just the two of us, I got back to my fall sewing. This weekend, I preshrunk all six fabrics for this capsule, and today I cut out two pairs of pants. Black wool crepe and charcoal wool flannel. Both are a dream to work with and I can hardly wait until tomorrow morning. Everything is ready - pants cut out, interfacing fused, hem interfacing strips cut (but not fused until I mark the exact length), sewing machine and serger threaded and ready, zippers and buttons waiting. Good night....

Fall sewing

Well, my machine is in the shop because I broke the needle threader back when I was embroidering the tunics. It has finally gotten on my nerves enough that I took it in. Funny how you get used to all kinds of bells and whistles designed to make life easier.

Anyway, I've been thinking about my new wardrobe needs. These last three or so years, I've been wearing mostly scrubs, nursing school uniform, and jeans. I have very little in the way of dressier clothing. Oh where are the days I had my own office and wore wool crepe skirts with silk blouses? And can I get them back from the goodwill store?

I pulled out a black wool crepe and an off-black wool flannel - both will make great winter pants - contour waistband, flat front, straight leg. And I should be able to get a knee-length skirt from each, too. That should take care of the big gaping hole in my wardrobe.

Then as I was looking at my stash, the cotton shirtings started calling out - there's enough of the white to make two shirts, three if I get really creative. The blue will make one shirt. I snatched these a while ago when Michael's Fabrics had a good deal on them. I need some nice cotton shirts to go with the new pants and skirts, right?

Rounding out the selection are the two sweater knits and I'm thinking a simple tee shape with a dramatic collar. Or if not dramatic, then at least a loose turtleneck.

All of these should be fairly easy - TNT patterns, good quality fabrics. And they will all go well together. A nice fall wardrobe capsule. Not quite a SWAP but close enough for me.

Vintage Sewing - part 1

We just got back from vacation - it was great, relaxing, sunny, just the way vacations are supposed to be. Before we left, I made a short A-line skirt in the black Zegna cotton, to wear with the two tunics. Pictures to come. The skirt is amazingly comfortable to wear and feels very summery. I'm used to the more constrictive pegged skirt shape so this is a nice break.

I joined the Vintage Sewing Contest on PatternReview.com, with this lovely Vogue Couturier pattern by Simonetta of Italy. I found it on Lanetzliving, a very addictive website with tons of vintage and recent OOP (out of print) patterns.

The description on the back reads: Two-piece dress and cape. Blouse has optional, bias ring collar, below elbow length sleeves. Button detail at front. Slim skirt. Cape has optional shaped collar with a high roll, and arm vents. Button closing. A very dry description of a totally fabulous outfit.

Suggested fabrics are wool jersey, flannel, tweed, lightweight woolens, brocade, faille, shantung, and something called "slipper satin". I am thinking of making the dress in a lightweight wool crepe. Maybe even the cape would work in a wool crepe although I'm not sure just how warm it will keep me. I like the version on the right, colors included. I may reverse the colors, though.

Today, I traced off the dress pattern so that I can make a muslin mock-up. Stay tuned for updates.